
[Every Thursday, Terra Nola documents the long-distance love affair between a New Yorker and New Orleans.]
Recently--as in yesterday--my mother-in-law sent me a little present as congratulations on getting a new job. It was a Williams-Sonoma cookbook entitled "Authentic Recipes Celebrating the Foods of the World: New Orleans."
I was immediately overjoyed by her sweet, thoughtful, and very personal gift. Then, as I started flipping through the pages full of beautiful photographs of the city and its culinary intricacies, I got a little sad. Ok, I'm lying--I got a lot sad.
I was sad because I won't be visiting any time soon. I was sadder because the photographs in the book were obviously pre-Katrina, when everyone was still having a grand old time eating and drinking and making merry. I was sadder still when I noted in the back of the book that it was published in 2005.
I hate 2005. Can I just say that? I mean, it was a crappy year for EVERYONE.
Now then, getting back to the book: I love it. It's fabulous. Whether or not the meals one can make from it are in any way shape or form 'authentic' remains to be seen by me. This is primarily because, although I've visited Nola too many times to count on my hands, I am both a vegetarian and a creature of habit.
This means that I've walked by Galatoire's, but I've never been inside. What the hell would I eat that they serve anyway? Same for all the grand old culinary dames in the Crescent City.
No matter, though, 'cuz now I have the cookbook full of what I hope are trade secrets. I mean, ok, it's no secret that Bananas Foster was invented at Brennan's and that they still make the best one ever. The recipe for Bananas Foster is, of course, among the many notable and well-known Luziana yummies offered in the W-S cookbook's pages.
But, even better than the recipe is the pictures of Brennan's and of the guy making the Bananas Foster. I recognize that bow-tied uniform. Heck, I recognize the guy making it!
All that recognition really makes me homesick for a place that is not even my home. How crazy is that? It's crazy. Trust me, I know.
But, getting back to the book, it's not just full of recipes that may or may not be the real deal (although it looks pretty real to me!). There is a section on New Orleans cocktails--those that at least partially claim to have been concocted for the first time down here. There's history and how-to on everything from the Sazarec, which we all know and love, to something called Brandy-Milk Punch, which to me sounds basically like egg nog served year-round.
They also offer their take on the Mint Julep, which I'd always taken for a Louisvillian drink--seriously, you should see people chug these things down at the Derby; it's like they were marathoners downing Gatorade--and the cajun martini, which I'm thinking is basically a martini made with Absolut Peppar and garnished with okra or something.
I'll let you know 'cuz you can get your bottom dollar I'll be making all of these now that I have the recipes, authentic Nola or not.
I have to admit, like with most cookbooks, my favorite part about this one is the pictures. I played a game with my husband of looking at the pictures and guessing the location of each. Many I knew, but not all. There is one pic in particular that had me laughing--it's of a bunch of guys dressed like Napoleon in none other than--you guessed it--Napoleon House.
The Carousel Bar at the Hotel Monteleone is pictured--I've been there, but not to stay at the hotel, just to hit the bar (what does this say about me? It says I appreciate a beautiful, revolving bar), as is Brennan's and Antoine's and Galatoire's. Never been to any of them.
There are shots of Acme Oyster Bar. I've been there. There's a photo of Albertine's Tea Room at....you guessed it: my perennial favorite, the Columns Hotel.
There a shot of Dick and Jenny's, where I've never been. There are photos of Tujague's, where I've not been and the name of which I can barely pronounce. I would be let in, though, because I can pronounce it. Seriously--it's Two Jacks. Sadly, I think Rachel Ray was the one who informed me of this.
Basically, my MIL is feeding my addiction to New Orleans. I feel like I'm in Nola rehab right now, or Nola prison, only folks are piece-mealing me anything they can get their hands on to keep my happy for the time being.
First it was some cool pictures, now it's a cookbook. World better watch out if I actually attempt to make anything out of it. Once I tried to make vegetarian jambalaya and it turned out horribly, just horribly. But, my pluck is back, and now I have real recipes to work with.
I'll begin with the drinks, and, if I ever get off the floor, move into the apps and on to dinners and sides. I will, of course, be making the vegetarian version of these things, so who knows how they'll turn out. The first recipe is for a tomato tart, though, so I think I'll be pleasantly surprised.
Since this book was a gift I don't even know if you can get a copy at Williams-Sonoma any more. I would hope so. And I would hope W-S has updated the cookbook for the current year. It saddens me so much to think that life for so many both in and outside of Nola stopped in 2005. What a crappy year.
But, back to the book. I checked it out on amazon.com and noted it is still available. I checked out the reviews, which, touchingly, are filled with tears of those who love the city as I do and miss her so, so, so much. You really ought to check out those reviews. They'll make you feel a little less abandoned, a little less un-loved.
I was so happy and so sad all at once, all over a book. Not just any book, a book about my true love. This story, the one where I cook, er, at least try to cook, will hopefully have a happier ending than did 2005. What a crappy year.
Then, just when I was feeling my worst, I saw the picture that summed it all up for me. It was of my beloved, and no more, Cafe Au Lait. I really miss that little place.









1. A friend sent me this posting and here's what I said to him: Jennifer Jordan is a writer. I felt the same emotions that she described in this blog posting—the love of Bananas foster (and I don’t even love the dessert, but more the thought of the restaurant and the man) and the unbridled joy and love that New Orleans evokes without trying to. Katrina was awful but I do wonder what if it had happened in Pugkepsie. Would it invoke the same level of rage, concern, desire to fix it? I know that the US was slow in responding to NOLA and in fact still is today. And all governments concerned (Federal, State, County or City) didn’t often make the right decisions—or at least not at the right time. But in any other city, would the US public as a whole have given it as much of a look? I don’t think so and I wonder why that is.
What is it about New Orleans that has always invoked a sense of belonging even from people who have never been or only been there once? Why should they feel anything deep about this City? I’ve been there 2 or 3 times and the people share a sense of belonging no matter who you are—you are part of them. Poeple in some cities wish you'd go away or they treat you as a tourist. I don’t know why New Orleans calls to us with open arms given most of those people who make me feel welcome are Black and for most of their lives, they’ve been treated badly and mostly by White folks. Or maybe it’s not true and maybe the way society has treated Blacks from New Orleans is different. Maybe New Orleans has always had a magical halo around it that brings all people together to be joyful.
I don’t know but this person’s writing brings life to my thoughts of New Orleans.
Posted at 7:33PM on Aug 4th 2007 by Susan Cain